48 hours in Barcelona

I was lucky enough to spend  three nights and two days in Barcelona earlier this month - my first trip to Spain. 

our rented flat was in this building

We rented a flat in the Poblo Sec neighbourhood of the city, and our first trip was to see Barcelona's most famous symbol - the Sagrada Família.

view of the Sagrada Família

outside the Sagrada Família 

As this was January I believe we were lucky as we didn't have to queue to get in - friends who have visited during the summer later told us there was 3 ½ hours of queue!

Nativity facade 

Sagrada Família is a large Roman Catholic basilica designed by Catalan architect Antoni Gaudí. Construction began in 1882, and Gaudí became involved in 1883, although when he died in 1926 (struck by a tram) the project was less than a quarter complete. Concerning the extremely long construction period, Gaudí is said to have remarked: "My client is not in a hurry." Work was interrupted by the Spanish Civil War in 1936, but has been carried on by various architects since 1940.

entrance door detail - each insect is different 

Unlike many other places of worship the Sagrada Família, which was consecrated by Pope Benedict in 2010, is filled with light inside. While never intended to be a cathedral (seat of a bishop), from the outset the Sagrada Família was planned to be a cathedral-sized building. 

inside the Sagrada Família

 Construction is expected to be completed by around 2026- 2028.

inside the Sagrada Família

There are three facades: Nativity (to the east), Passion (to the West) and Glory (to the South). The latter is yet to be completed.

sculpture depicting the Kiss of Judas on the Passion facade 

The Plaza Monumental de Barcelona is a former bullring, the last bullfighting arena that was in commercial operation in Catalonia. It was inaugurated in 1914 and expanded in 1916. It was the last place in Catalonia where bullfights were held, since in 2010 the Parliament of Catalonia passed a ban of bullfighting events that came into force in 2012.

Plaza Monumental (former bullring)

Architect-designed telecommunications tower
on Sants-Montjuïc

Statue of a music hall performer who died 50 years ago,
Raquel Meller, still adorned with fresh flowers.

colourful Monk parakeets (Myiopsitta monachus) are everywhere

Palau Güell is a Gaudi-designed mansion built for Catalan tycoon Eusebi Güell between 1886 and 1888. 

part of the facade of Palau Guell

The next day we started by visiting the Gothic Cathedral of Barcelona, which was constructed between the 13th and 15th centuries.

interior of Barcelona Cathedral

The cathedral is next to an interesting part of Barcelona known as the Barri Gòtic or 'Gothic Quarter'. Many of the buildings in the area date from Medieval times, some from as far back as the Roman settlement.

'Barcino' was the Roman name for Barcelona

During the 19th century the city government installed a one-way system for horse-drawn carriages in the narrow streets of the Gothic quarter. Signs said entrada or 'entrance' at one end, and salida ('exit') at the other end, so you were not allowed to enter a street from the end marked salida, only from the entrada end.

'entrada' sign on a street in the Old Quarter

modern sculpture, Plaça Nova square

After the Cathedral we headed to the beautiful Palau de la Música Catalana, or Palace of Catalan Music.

upstairs balcony, Palace of Catalan Music

This concert hall was designed in the Catalan modernista style by the architect Lluís Domènech i Montaner, and was built between 1905 and 1908 for the Orfeó Català, a choral society.

stained glass skylight in the concert hall

The concert hall, which seats about 2,200 people, has been described as one of the most beautiful in the world, and is the only auditorium in Europe that is illuminated during daylight hours entirely by natural light. In a semicircle on the sides of the back of the stage are the figures of 18 young women popularly known as the muses (although there are only nine muses in Greek mythology). The monotone upper bodies of the women protrude from the wall and their lower bodies are depicted by colorful mosaics that form part of the wall. Each of the women is playing a different musical instrument, and each is wearing a different elaborately-designed skirt, blouse, and headdress.

some of the muses at the back of the stage

Our final visit was to Park Güell, a park system composed of gardens and architectonic elements designed by Gaudí for Eusebi Güell.

 view from Park Güell

Entrance to the Park is free but there is a fee to visit the 'monumental precinct' (main entrance and the parts containing mosaics).

Mosaic salamander (also known as a dragon) designed by Gaudi

From the entrance a twin flight of steps rises, where the famous salamander or dragon can be found. The most popular image of the park, it is covered with decorative tile-shard mosaic. 

Park Güell at sunset

There are many other places we could have visited (Picasso Museum, Joan Miro Foundation, La Pedrera etc etc) but time was short, so we had to choose just a few places. We still have plenty more left for another trip!

Suggested reading:

• The Shadow of the Wind by Carlos Ruiz Zafón

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Seton Collegiate Church

The most striking thing about Seton Collegiate Church when you see it for the first time is its truncated spire, which was apparently precluded by the Reformation. It is one of the finest surviving collegiate churches in Scotland and owes much of its grandeur to the Seton family, whose palace was near the church. It is located in a peaceful woodland setting in East Lothian (Scotland) and is sometimes still used for weddings.

Seton Church from the south

In 1242 a parish church dedicated to St Mary and the Holy Cross was consecrated on the site by the Bishop of St Andrews, probably a simple rectangular structure which later became the - now demolished - nave of the building. Around 1434 Lady Katherine St Clair, the widow of Sir John Seton,  added a chantry chapel to house his tomb. Lady Katherine's grandson, the 1st Lord Seton, founded the church and college of priests  in 1470 without securing papal permission. Approval from Pope Alexander VI secured collegiate status in 1492. (Collegiate churches got their name from the college of priests - generally established by wealthy families - to say prayers for their souls in order to win forgiveness and salvation). 

west face of the church, showing remains of demolished nave

In 1544 however during the 'Rough Wooing' conflict English troops damaged the church, burning the timber work and stealing the bells and organ. The 1560 Scottish Reformation outlawed mass and thus effectively brought an end to the collegiate life. Seton Church briefly became a parish church before becoming a private chapel for the Seton family. In 1603 King James VI was on his way to his coronation in London when he stopped here to attend the funeral of his friend the 6th Lord Seton. The Jacobite Setons lost their lands in the 1715 Rising because they had supported the exiled 'Old Pretender' James Edward Stuart, and the church was ransacked and ceased being a place of worship; at one point in the 19th century is was even a carpenter's workshop. In 1878 the Earl of Wemyss became the new owner of the church and restored the building as a family burial place. In the 1940s it passed into state care.

the fine vaulted ceiling

A bell in the south transept was made in Holland in 1577 for the 5th Lord Seton, and is a rare survival from that period.

bell dating from 1577

In the choir/chancel area a mural tomb has unknown effigies of a knight and his lady dressed in 15th century clothes, possibly members of the Seton family.

Mural tomb with unknown effigies of a knight and his lady

A door in the north wall leads to the sacristy, where the priests would have prepared for mass.

looking out of the sacristy into the choir area

The transepts (north and south) were erected sometime between 1513 and 1588.

the north transept

carved bust located in the south transept

carved corbel

 

Like Rosslyn Chapel, 9 miles away, Seton also has a legend of a murdered apprentice. The story is that the Master Mason in charge of building the church had a major problem erecting the vaulted roof of the nave and went to another church to examine how the vaulted roof there had been erected. Given that there were a number of churches in the vicinity with vaulted roofs it seems likely that a long journey was not involved. In the absence of the Master Mason an apprentice had made the mathematical calculations and drawings showing how the vaulted roof could be built. The Master Mason, his pride being badly bruised (not to mention his ruined reputation of as ‘Master’), flew into a rage and hit the apprentice with a mallet killing him on the spot. The reporter was informed by a local worthy, from Port Seton, that it was believed that the Seton Master Mason was none other than the disgraced Master Mason from Rosslyn Collegiate Church who had not in fact committed suicide after killing the Apprentice there but had moved to Seton in order to design and later build that church the construction of which began in 1470. 

Murdered apprentice carving in Seton Church

In the south transept is a splendid monument to James, 1st Earl of Perth who died in 1611.

detail of the monument, showing a skull at the top

In the 1400s Seton Palace was built for the Seton family, and was described as one of the greatest houses in Scotland of that time.  The palace later fell into ruin and was eventually demolished in 1789 to make way for a new house, called Seton House or Seton Castle today, designed by renowned architect Robert Adam. Immediately to the west of the church, Seton House was recently sold for £5 million, making it one of Scotland's most expensive private homes.

Seton House

Outside, to the south-west of the church, are foundations that may be a rare example of priests' accommodation. At its height one provost, eight canons, two choristers and a clerk all lived here, praying for the salvation of Lord Seton and his family. They were probably later re-used as outbuildings for Seton Palace and include a mill and a brewhouse. They were uncovered during clearance work in the 1950s.

remains of priests' domestic quarters

Directions: 

Seton Collegiate Church is located to the immediate south-east of Port Seton in Longniddry, East Lothian, EH32 0PG.

There is a small car park situated approximately 1.5km west of Longniddry on the B1961 just as it turns into a dual carriageway.

Additional Information: 

• Admission charges. 
• Seasonal opening hours: April to September Monday to Sunday 9.30am - 5.30pm. Closed in winter.
• Tel: 01875 813334

Scuba diving in Iceland

Mention scuba diving in Iceland to most people and - divers themselves or not - they'll look at you like you're mad and give a shiver. But during the week we spent in Iceland this is exactly what we did for three days!

Eurasian plate on the right, North American plate on the left

Our first stop was at Þingvallavatn, Iceland's largest natural lake, which is located in Þingvellir National Park about an hour or so's drive from Reykjavik. We were going to be diving Silfra, a rift that separates the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates.

map showing northern part of Þingvallavatn

path to Silfra dive site (note handrail leading to diving platform)

initial part of Silfra rift, seen from above water

Þingvallavatn contains very cold (3-4°C) but incredibly clear water, which has taken 30-100 years to filter through lava fields from melting glaciers. It's technically drinkable although I have to admit I didn't try it.

Divers are attracted by the fantastic visibility and the geological curiosity of the site - there's not many places in the world where you can dive between (and touch) two tectonic plates. These plates are moving apart at a rate of about 2cm per year.

Silfra has been placed on the top five diving destinations list by many diving publications. Visibility can reach end-of-sight and is rated at 150 to 300 metres.

one of only two fish we saw during our Silfra dives

Silfra's deepest known point is 63 metres.

the other fish!

The extreme cold means dives generally only last 30 minutes. However after a surface interval we did the same dive again, and visibility was even better the second time as there were no other divers around (all the photos are actually from the first dive).

bright green wispy algae

Towards the end of the dive you turn into Silfra Lagoon, which is very shallow (about 5m) but quite wide: 120 metres.

in the lagoon

in the lagoon

The far side of the lagoon marks the exit point from the dive site, and from there it's a short (but breathless) hike back to the car park for a warm drink.

in the lagoon

For our second day's diving we headed to the Reykjanes Peninsula, south-west of Reykjavik, to dive in Kleifarvatn freshwater lake.

At Kleifarvatn

pre-dive checks

In 2000 two major earthquakes led to 20% of the lake's water disappearing, and it was noticed that the lake held submerged hot springs. The water level is now back to its previous level, for divers delight!

You don't need to dive very deep to see the bubbling springs - our maximum depth on this dive was only 8m.

Kleifarvatn's bubbling lake bed

This was our warmest dive in Iceland - water temperature at the surface was 16°C, and 13°C a few metres below.

Kleifarvatn's bubbling lake bed

At one place a dark, mysterious, seemingly bottomless hole has opened up - our dive guide told us it wasn't there a few months before.

If this is what the lake does to fish, what will it do to me?!

But only after diving did our dive guide tell us the legend about a worm-like creature the size of a whale who lurks in the lake - the local equivalent of the Loch Ness Monster!

For my husband and I it reminded us of one of dives in Pulau Weh (Sumatra) when we dived on similar hot springs in another very volcanic part of the world.

 fascinating to watch

Still on the peninsula, our second dive of the day should have been in the sea near an aluminium smelting plant at Hafnarfjörður, however heavy swell and poor visibility meant we ended up aborting the dive.

dive site near Hafnarfjörður

Our third and final day of diving was long but worth while. We set off at 6am for a 5 hour drive to the fjord of Eyjafjordur in Northern Iceland to dive geothermal chimneys at a site known as Strytan.

illustration showing Eyjafördur geothermal chimneys

We set off from the tiny port of Hjalteyri, a small fishing village founded in the late 19th century.

jellyfish in the port, Hjalteyri

The geothermal chimneys are remarkable in that they are the world's only undersea chimneys that can be explored using conventional (i.e. scuba) diving equipment. (Similar chimneys elsewhere in the world are at depths of 2000m or more). They are also home to an abundance of thermophilic organisms, some found nowhere else in the world. 

the descent

The chimneys are continuously growing, the tallest of them currently towers around 60m above the seabed; its summit is about 15 metres below the surface. Although the chimneys are government-protected areas sightseeing diving is allowed, but you must proceed with great care.

the top of the tallest chimney appears

The photo below isn't at an angle - the fish actually swim with their heads pointing downwards, presumably because of the chimney's freshwater current.

The chimneys are made of siliceous deposits. Hot, mineral-rich freshwater originating from the Icelandic highlands rises at a rate of up to 100 litres per second through the seabed, creating new crust (up to 300 tons per year) when the hot freshwater meets the cold sea.

close-up of the chimney

The freshwater coming from the chimney has a pH of 10 and a temperature of 72-75°C and is apparently 1100 years old.

soft coral

Water temperature during the dive was about 9-10°C at the surface and 7°C at 30m.

The site was discovered by diver Erlendur Bogason in 1997.

note the jellyfish in the foreground

We then had a brief surface interval in our boat (during which we saw a whale) before diving on another geothermal cone site known as Arnarnesstrytur (or 'French Gardens').

Eyjafordur

surface interval

Arnarnesstrytur is a group of much smaller cones at depths from 18 to 46 metres. 

cone at Arnarnesstrytur

The cones themselves range is size from 0.5 to 12 metres high; we dived on the shallowest cone at 18m, from which hot water at 78°C streamed.

Strytan and Arnarnesstrytur are the only two protected underwater areas in Iceland. Strytan protected area is 200m in radius, and Arnarnesstrytur protected area (2007) is 400 x 1000m.

What was fascinating to me on this dive were the aggressive purple-blue wolffish - I'd never seen anything like them. They made me think of a human face stuck on a fish body - rather like drawings on those ancient maps labelled "here be sea monsters".

Atlantic wolffish

In Iceland the species is called steinbítur, which translates literally as "stone biter". I don't know about stone, but one certainly tried biting our dive guide's buttocks!

Atlantic wolffish

We also saw lumpsuckers guarding their eggs.

Face to face with a lumpsucker

Lumpsucker seen from the side

soft coral

After our two dives it was time to make a quick trip to Akureyri (Iceland's second city - population 17000) for a late lunch before heading back to Reykjavik. Amazingly, because of the long summer days although we left Reykjavik at 6am and arrived back at 10pm it was light all day long.

jellyfish

Our Icelandic dives were definitely amongst the most memorable we've ever done.  Our incredible underwater experiences there more than made up for any cold we might have felt.

Related posts:

• Reykjavik - the world's most northerly capital
• Iceland - nature at work ... or at play?

Suggested reading:

The Draining Lake: A Thriller (Reykjavik Thriller) by Arnaldur Indriðason. A 2004 crime novel by the famous Icelandic author, featuring the fictional Detective Erlendur. The title is based on the real Kleifarvatn, and in the novel, the dropping water level revealed a body long hidden in the lake.

Useful links:

• Silfra.org 
• Dive Iceland (the company we dived with)
• Dive.is
• Strytan Divecentre